A Morning in Missoula
The October air was crisp as I stepped out of the hotel lobby. Most of the town was still asleep as the sun barely peaked above the mountainous horizon. An occasional car would break the quiet of the dawn. I always love to get out early to a walk a new town. The morning light shows the truth, before the afternoon sun washes everything in light, or the night allows the cracks to hide in the shadows. The mornings are real. This morning in Missoula would tell me what the town was really about.
The Soul of a City
A lot of people think that the soul of the city is advancement. The cranes, the progress. Making everything shiny and new. I look at it a different way. I believe a shiny penny is meant to be spent but a petinaed penny is to be collected. The old penny has passed through hands and traveled the world. No, the soul of the city is not the progress but the past. The glass and steel, the modern architecture is heart. Pumping the lifeblood of advancement. The soul is held up by the bricks and marble. The past that won’t be erased. Forever standing to support the growth of the city. That is what I am interested in on my morning walk.
The Walk
My morning walk started against the long, lingering shadows of the morning as the darkness retreated from the rebirth of the city streets. A bus hummed down the road full of the other lunch-pail folks who punch in or out when the darkness is still full. My legs feel the stiffness brought on by the morning chill as I slowly make my way down the sidewalks. My eyes wake and open a little wider to the first building that hints at the soul of the city.
The Brick and The Shine
The white brick of the First Montana Bank Building caught my eye as it caught the sunlight this October Morning. The square utility feel of the building felt like the broad shoulders that can hold the weight of the city. The clock, directly in the center of the building, felt like it kept the whole city on time.
Directly across Higgins Street from the bank was the complete opposite of utility style. Romanesque Columns guard the entrance and lead to intricate brick work of the current home of the symphony.
Just a building away, the gold decoration shows the artistry that is missing from the solid brick of the bank building. Showing the beauty and style of the city.
The contrast of art and utility showed me how Missoula is moving into the future while holding onto the roots that made it the town that it is. The contrast is shown in the hard working mentality and the creativity that is taking it into the next stage of its evolution. The next building that showed that hard work was one of my subtle favorites. A simple brick building with a simple sign that is probably ignored but I locked onto as one of my favorites.
The Missoula Laundry Company building just had that feel of another building that holds the secrets to the soul of the past. The building directly next to it shows the artistry and hobbies that take Missoula to the future.
The History
My legs were moving quicker now as I zig-zagged my way through downtown Missoula. The sun was starting to rise and shed more light on the town. Each minute revealing more of the past that will carry into the future. Even before I saw the building I saw the clocktower that drew me in like a moth to a flame. I crossed Pattee, Higgins, Ryman streets and found the Missoula County Courthouse.
Missoula County Courthouse
In front of the court house, stood a statue honoring those Missoula residents who gave it all in the world wars. A somber reminder of the sacrifice and service that lives deep in the people of Missoula. Behind the statue the court house that has stood stoically on this square since 1910 and resides on the list of national historic buildings.
The cour thouse towers with its sandstone construction. Massive columns in the front of the building draw the eye directly to the Copper domed clock tower. In the morning, the windows reflected dawns early light and mirrored the horizon. Simply stunning its complex simplicity on a an early Missoula morning.
St. Francis Xavier Catholic Church
The next clocktower that I saw from the court house had me moving again. A few blocks over on Orange and Pine streets sits St. Francis Xavier Catholic Church. In 1892, when this church was completed, it was the biggest church in Montana. Today, it still stands as one of the tallest churches in the state. The 132 year old building is still a remarkable sight against the changing Missoula landscape.
Old Milwaukee Depot Building
After visiting the church, I once again began scanning the horizon. I found another tower but this one was on the other side of the Clark Fork River that splits the town. I cross over the Beartracks Bridge, which was recently renamed to honor the original inhabitants of these lands. The river was slowly meandering its way, moving as slowly as I do in the early morning hours.
Standing guard on the far side of the river is the old Milwaukee Depot building and its tower. Like the court house, this depot was built in 1910 and was originally the train depot. Currently it is the national headquarters of the Boone and Crockett Club. The Boone and Crockett club was founded in 1887 by Theodore Roosevelt and is the oldest conservation club in the country.
While the Old Depot’s brick construction and tower are extremely impressive, my favorite feature is a nod back to yesteryear. In the front lawn, an old rail signal tower stands tall. My dad loved everything about trains and I know this would have been one of those small details that he would have enjoyed.
The Signs
The buildings of a town aren’t the only thing that tell me a story. If you have followed my blog at all, you know I make a lot of decisions based on signs. I love the style and artistry of the old signs. The neon, the tin, the older the better. There is something about a direct sign that just tells you what the town is about. Missoula was full of these signs.
The signs of Missoula talk of another era, preserved for all to see the history living on the walls and sign posts on top of the city. The Uptown Motel and the Cafe sign are staples of any town that is ready to take in weary travelers. The Wilma, a historic theatre, adorning its sign with the permanent star bursts of an unforgettable evening of entertainment. Red’s Bar might be the most inviting sign I have ever seen. I never stepped inside Red’s on my early morning journey but somehow I feel like I know exactly how it looks, smells, and feels inside those doors.
The Oxford Cafe
My favorite story may be about the Oxford. The Oxford Cafe was founded sometimes around 1907 according to the website. It has been open 24 hours a day for as long as any one can remember. So long in fact, nobody can find the keys to the doors. When they were supposed to close for the shut downs in 2020, they couldn’t find a key to lock the front doors with. I ran into a local who told me that story and that “The Ox” is known to cater to everyone. From three piece suits and cowboy hats, to trekking packs and sandals, you can find every one enjoying themselves at the Oxford Cafe. I wonder how many remarkable people sat shoulder to shoulder with folks passing through in the 100 year history.
The Soul in the Steps
I spent about an hour canvassing across the town of Missoula and came up with a conclusion. Missoula is a town that is changing and advancing. There are breweries and distillery’s and coffee shops and hot yoga. But the soul is rooted in the solid sandstone of the court house, the 132 years of the church bricks, and the train depot that is now a beacon of conservation. The heart is beating every day with college students and new professionals. With growth and change. But the soul of Missoula is anchored in its history. A place you can still wave at neighbors and sit down at the Oxford Cafe. A place you can put down roots and know that the soul is safe among the stones.
More from The Fatman
If you enjoyed this post you may enjoy more of the posts on my Fatman’s Rambling page. Blogs such as “Screw it, I’m Trying”, “Hiking Alone not Lonely Hiking“, “Winslow, Arizona” and “Another Year” as well as many others may interest you there. If you have any comments or topics you would like me to cover, feel free to email me at fatmanlittletrails@gmail.com. Or you can keep the conversation going by following me on any of the below social media platforms.
Gallery of my Morning in Missoula
Thanks for sharing! Missoula is a nice town! Henry Austin